THE VENETO

The Veneto is a region rich in art, history and natural beauty, with a myriad of things to do and places to visit. Nestling in the middle of the Padania Plain is a little bit of Paradise known as the Colli Euganei, a range of hills full of picturesque scenery and pretty hill towns which offer the opportunity to relax between visits to the Veneto's fabulous, historic cities.

The Region of the Veneto, perhaps one of the least discovered parts of Italy, this small, north eastern region situated among Emilia Romagna to the south, Lombardy to the west, Trentino-Alto Adige to the North and Friuli to the east, was once ruled by the major might that was Venice.

The name 'Veneto' is derived from the name of ancient settlers, the Veneti, who occupied the area well before the Romans. Now, whilst Venice remains its most famous jewel, the rest of Veneto's crown, with many more equally fascinating gems, is becoming more accessible to visitors. The advent of cheaper air travel and improved internal transport links makes visiting other parts of the region much easier. The cities of Treviso, Padua, Verona and Vicenza are all within reasonable travelling distance of Venice and offer a richness of history, art and culture, individual to each fascinating city. There are many who regard the mainland, rural areas of the Veneto to be flat and uninteresting but this is because they do not know of stunningly beautiful Colli Euganei (Euganean Hills) situated about 55 kms from Venice and studded with picturesque towns, beautiful Venetian villas and terraced vineyards, centred around the main spa town of Abano Terme. Further to the north lies the other range of hills known as the little Dolomites which eventually grow to become the main mountain range, reaching heights in excess of 2000 metres. This area is world famous for its ski resorts and other winter sports facilities. Not bad for a region reputed to be totally flat! The beautiful Lake Garda, the largest of the Italian lakes, lies between the Veneto and Lombardy about thirty minutes drive from Verona, although the traffic on the roads in the area may prolong your journey. However, it's worth the wait to stretch your legs along Garda's shoreline, especially towards the south, where the waterfront promenades make an evening stroll, the passagiata, all the more enjoyable. Generally, as part of the industrial north of Italy, the Veneto is a largely prosperous area with many companies producing their goods here. However, driving through an area so richly covered in fields of maize, meticulously tended vineyards and orchards, through which meander so many canals and waterways, it's difficult to realize so much manufacture takes place in the Veneto. This region has some 4.5 million inhabitants accounting for 7.7% of the Italian population. It covers an area of approximately 18,379 km² and enjoys long, warm summers and cold but short, winters. The people of the Veneto are warm and welcoming and English is spoken in most of the major cities. However, outside the main tourist areas, the language is local, complicated and based on Latin. Of course, mainstream Italian is understood throughout the Veneto, which is a blessing as Veneto dialect has a reputation as being the most difficult in all Italy!

The Major Cities of the Veneto

This region is rich in cities, all worth visiting for their individual features.

Treviso. Situated to the north of the region and about a 45 minute drive from Venice, this is a pretty spot often compared with Venice because of its many tree lined canals. However, this city has a history and charm all of its own having origins in the Bronze Age. Despite its rich and varied history, it now enjoys fame as the major growing area for radicchio, a red, leaf vegetable from which, it would appear, all things edible can be made. There are a few specialists who produce a full menu based on radicchio. From antipasto to dolci, all are made from the vegetable, washed down with radicchio wine and finished off with coffee and radicchio liqueur. Many feel that this city is grossly underrated, and for sure, you are unlikely to meet hoards of tourists despite the fact that there are many interesting buildings to be seen here. The town itself has 16th century walls which are well preserved and have several entry gates, the best of which is Porta San Tommaso. Near the wall to the south of the city is the church of San Nicolò. This church houses a number of tombs, paintings and frescoes. A number of other churches warrant a visit including San Agostino, Santa Maria Maggiore and Santa Caterina. The Museo Civica is also worth some time as many Venetian artists are represented in its picture gallery and there is also an archaeological collection. On leaving Treviso, it is worth making for Vicenza and then branching off to Fanzolo to see one of Palladio's gems, the Villa Emo situated on the edge of the village. This masterpiece, said to be the most faithful of Palladio's designs, is equally stunning both inside and out. It is worth noting that Treviso is the site of what is now regarded as Venice's second airport. Low cost flights go into Treviso daily from UK airports and there are good transport links from the airport into Venice and Padua.

Padua (Padova). One of the oldest cities in the Veneto, this gem of a place should not be missed by anyone visiting the region. Its origins are lost in the mists of legend but is recorded as being the Roman city of Patavium in 46BC, with known settlements on this site for many centuries before that. Not a massive city, it is best seen on foot. Start your tour of the major sites at the Prato Della Valle, the largest monumental piazza in Europe and full of statues of the great and the good of Padua. This is the site of a vast market every Saturday where everything from tomatoes to tights can be purchased and it is also from here that the spectacular firework display at Ferragosto (the celebrations for the Feast of the Assumption, in August) can be seen. A gentle stroll from here is the Basilica of Sant'Antonio, the saint who dominates this city. This is the largest renaissance church in the Veneto and has a majesty and splendour surpassed only by St Peter's in Rome. As its name implies, it houses the remains of St Anthony, who was canonised in 1232, the same year as work began on building the Basilica, which took over a century to complete. It is now the site of massive pilgrimages throughout the year, as St Anthony is revered throughout the Catholic world. Another vital reason to visit to Padua is to see the Scrovegni Chapel where the frescoes of Giotto (painted between 1303 and 1305) can be seen in all their recently restored glory. Famous throughout Europe as one of the oldest, the university of Padua is another site not to be missed. Here you can see the lecturn from which Galileo Galilei, its most famous of teachers, delivered his lectures. Its famous pupils include William Harvey, who was responsible for discovering the circulation of blood. Not surprising then, that this university has the oldest surviving anatomical lecture theatre in the world today. However, Padua is not just art and history. It is also a bustling, vital city full of interesting shops, wonderful food markets and great restaurants.

Verona. Famous for the one of the best preserved and carefully restored Roman arenas in the world, Verona is the city of opera where a major festival is held in the arena every August and September. On opera evenings the arena is lit by thousands of candles bought and held by the patrons and the atmosphere is truly magical. However, unlike most English performances, the prices are not prohibitive. The story of Romeo and Juliet which inspired Shakespeare's play was written in this area (in fact by Luigi da Porto from Vicenza ) and what is reputed to be Juliet's house, with balcony, her statue and all, can be seen in Via Cappello. The beautiful Cathedral of San Zeno Maggiore is also worth a visit. This is a masterpiece of romantic art with a mixture of styles but with a Romanesque interior of stunning proportions. A number of other sites in Verona also warrant a visit including the Scaliger Castle and the little church of San Zeno (not to be confused with the major San Zeno Maggiore).

Vicenza. Known as the city of Andrea Palladio, this area is testament to the genius of this 15th century architect. Laying in a loop of the River Adige, surrounded by lovely countryside, this city is compact and neat and full of the architecture of its most famous son. Not to be missed is the famous Teatro Olympico, started by Palladio a year before his death and finished by Scamozzi. The scenery, on stage, is a masterpiece of perspective, tempting the viewer to walk down its flat, painted plaster and wood streets, which appear to stretch way into the distance, deceiving and delighting the eye in one glance. The Duomo in Vicenza is relatively new following extensive bomb damage in World War 2, although the facade and choir remain. A number of buildings, in which Palladio had a hand, still remain. Most are palaces built for wealthy noblemen and are in-keeping with this elegant and prosperous city. No less elegant are the shops and restaurants in Vicenza and a leisurely lunch in a quiet, restaurant garden, just off the main street, is a special pleasure. Having visited some of the cities, it is well worth taking a boat trip along the Brenta canal, which carves its way from Padua to the lagoon in Venice. Along its banks are many more historic villas, notably the Villa Pisani at Strà and the Villa Querini at Chitarra. This is a restful and stress free way to see lovely countryside and fabulous architecture without moving a muscle.

Food and Wine in the Veneto. Like any other region of Italy, the Veneto has many specialist dishes and wines and because much of the region is close to the sea, the fish is 'caught this morning' fresh and consistently good. Further inland to the west and in the north, the use of cheese and meat is more prevalent. Maize is grown in abundance here so many dishes are based on this basic commodity and harks back to an era when the region did not enjoy its present prosperity. Because of this, many dishes are based on polenta (corn meal) and also on another of the region's main crops, rice. Typical dishes are: Pasta e Fasoi (soup made with pasta and beans) Risi e Bisi (rice with peas) Polenta e Baccalà (polenta with reconstituted, dried fish) Bigoli al Ragù (long pasta with meat sauce) Figà a la Veneziana ( liver in sauce) Frito Misto de Mare (mixed fish and seafood, battered and deep fried). There are also some great cheeses to be found in the area including Asiago, Piave and Monte Veronese. There are a number of areas producing prosciutto crudo in the region and it is a mistake to believe that Parma in Emilia Romagna, has the monopoly on producing good cured ham. Montagnana produces delectable, sweet ham and prosciutto Berico Euganeo is also manufactured in the Veneto. This region also has a soft, tasty salami called soppressa, which is equally delicious freshly sliced or barbecued. Fruit and vegetables are in abundance and the region is particularly well known for its chestnuts, cherries, olives and radicchio. Cakes and other sweets are also found in abundance here and Pandoro from Verona is particularly famous. As one of the foremost wine-producing regions in Italy, the Veneto has a reputation for both quality and quantity. This part of Italy produces some 20% of the Country's wine, many of which are internationally known and appreciated. There are over 21 wines that have achieved DOC (denominazione di origine controllata) status. The most appreciated wines come from around the major cities and the area around Verona is particularly suitable for vines because of its temperate climate and hilly terrain. Indeed, it is thought that this area has been producing wine since the Bronze Age, so they're pretty skilled by now! The first school of wine production and oenology in Italy was founded in the Veneto in 1885, which is an indication the region's importance and expertise in wine-production. Another 'first' here was the establishment of the 'wine road', a wine touring itinerary featuring special road signs providing information about the vineyards and the wines. Bardolino, Valpolicella, Bianco di Custoza, Soave, Breganze and Recioto are all produced here. Worth a special mention is Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, the dry sparkling wine of the region which compares more than favourably to Champagne. For those who enjoy a full bodied red, Amarone, made from special, dried grapes, is particularly memorable.

Holiday Resorts. Whilst much of the region is relatively undiscovered by foreign tourists, the Dolomites have fashionable ski resorts such as Cortina D'Ampezzo and there are many seaside areas such as those north of the Venice lagoon, including Jesolo, Caorle and Bibione. Sandy beaches can also be found at Sottomarina and Rosolina. Lake Garda is well known to tourists and the beautiful towns of Simione (with its ancient castle), Peschiera (with its fortified walls), Garda and Lazise are all worth a visit and reminiscent of ancient fishing villages.

Flights. The region is well served by airports receiving flights from the UK. Ryanair flies daily from Stansted, Luton and Liverpool into Treviso (Venice). Easyjet, from Gatwick, flies daily into Venice and British Airways has daily flights into Venice and Verona from Gatwick.

Ros Fuller